Ahlan Wasahlan
“Welcome
to Jordan” are the first words I heard when I arrived to the Queen Rania
Airport in Amman, Jordan. These words
were said in English. It seems that everyone wants to welcome me to Jordan once
they find out I am from America, even after two weeks. I imagine it will be
like this the rest of my time here, a period of four months. After working with
many Arabs in the United States, I have come to learn a different culture but a
culture I felt was subdued by the Western Culture in which they were present
in. These are the people I study for school and my impressions I felt were
altered a little bit. Maybe the Arabs I met were accustomed to Western thought
and experience has transformed them. I knew I had to get to the Middle East for
myself to see what the Arab was like; in his atmosphere, in his realm, and in
his own home. Jordanians are interesting
folk, if you can even use the term folk. They are loud, thoughtful, deceitful,
kind, helpful, ambitious, talkative, deceived, and patient. Now not all
Jordanians are each characteristic I just mentioned, not at all. I feel those
characteristics I feel can describe almost any society in the world. For my
first assignment of writing about the culture, I’d like to explain my first 24
hours, my first welcome from the country, and my first impression of finally
being in the Arab world.
First views of Jordan |
Air
France. Don’t ever fly with them. Their customer service while on the plane is
fantastic but their luggage transfers are subpar. This was their second time
losing my luggage in Paris in less than a week. While at the airport I had my
friend’s cousin, Hashem Al Nasser, waiting for me. He waited patiently, without
smoking a cigarette for one whole hour in the airport, as I got my luggage
situation taken care of. Hashem Al Nasser and I first met on Facebook (Most
Arabs love Facebook); we hadn’t met
in person prior to the airport. I was impressed with his ability to be patient
with my luggage situation. He then drove towards Amman. Along the road, I saw
families huddled around a small tent and camp fire (it was at night), probably
cooking something with meat. I asked Hashem if this is where they lived, he
said no, it was their way of getting out of the city and enjoying time with
their family. We then went to dilwar ilbalad, or downtown of Amman. It was
crowded and so bright with lights. We went to his favorite restaurant, Hashem’s.
No it wasn’t his favorite place because of the name; I quickly learned it was because
of the pita and hummus that was served. Just thinking of it makes my mouth
water. Then he drove us around the city, demanding that we see at least one of
the hills. You see, Jordan is built on many hills (or mountains), much of the
old city falls between these hills where the water would run down. Now the city
is much bigger and each area has its name. We drove down Rainbow Street, which
is supposed to be where most foreigners were. We didn’t get out of the car,
simply drove through the rigged traffic in a maybe two lane road. As we slowly drove down this street, we saw
many cafes and restaurants, many of them with hookahs—an instrument to smoke
basically anything you put into it. We then saw many women that were outside of
what the media typically shows, they were unveiled, immodestly dressed and
plastered in makeup. These women were surprisingly looked more like Arabs than
foreigners. This is where Hashem invited me to get a girlfriend. The Arabs I saw
were fairly attractive, much more in person than I expected, but a girlfriend
was not an option because I already had one. He let me and my friend, Keith,
use his cell phone to call our mothers back in the United States. He dropped us
off at our hotel; it was a grand first night. We were ecstatic to be in Jordan
and had a great introduction. Thank you to a new friend in a foreign land.
View of Amman from Rainbow street |
Sun Rise Hotel was very interesting.
It apparently is the oldest hotel in Amman, which I am sure it is one of the older hotels in Amman. It was
run down, but it did have wireless internet. I found myself going down to the
lobby asking for the password for the wireless internet so I could contact
family and find the address to the place we needed to be the next day. It was no sooner found
myself sitting down with the foondook owner and his friend helping them find companies that insure the oil rigs in the Persian Gulf. They later told me they
wanted to buy stock in these companies because they thought they will become
very rich if they did. I thought to myself why would they get rich from them? But I didn’t
let it bother me too much. They then noticed my iPhone and asked if I was going
to get the iPhone 5. They asked if it was really see-through, or transparent. I
laughed and said there is no way they would do that. They must have seen the
same predictions/fake photos of the iPhone 5 I saw on the internet. They then
started to speak to me in Arabic—about politics. They asked me if I liked Obama
and Bush. They began to state how profoundly they hated Bush because of the
wars which he brought to the Middle East all for oil. They stated they didn’t like Obama
but they also didn’t like Romney. They muttered that he wasn’t even a
Christian, that America should have an American president. “Mormons, don’t believe in Christ,” one said. “Why
would America ever have a non-believing Christian?” “He is a Mormon and must be
magnuun (crazy).” Even though their words were filled with disgust about this
topic, I looked at them with some excitement. I said, “Ana mormonee zay Romney
(I am a Mormon like Romney). “ I
explained to them that I believe in Jesus Christ. They questioned all different
aspects of how I believed in Christ. They then seemed to have run out of
complaints about Romney and the Mormons. I knew at least one of them was Muslim because I had
to wait for him to finish praying before I could check in.
They then went back into the topic
of stocks for the oil insurance companies. It finally bugged me enough to ask
them why they wanted to invest in these companies.
“Because we will get rich.”
“Why?”
“Because Israel and America will be
at war with Iran very soon.”
“Why would you want war?”
“So we can get rich, very very
rich.”
“I hope they don’t go to war. In
fact, I don’t think there will be a war at all.”
One stood up and said, “I hope
there is a war! I want to be a rich man.”
This
logic made great sense. Hate President Bush for bringing wars to the Middle
East, say it was for his own personal gain for oil, etc. but then want a war
just so you can get rich off of stock from insurance companies that we weren’t even
able to find for the last hour. I wish I had known better Arabic at this moment
because my response of why there probably won’t be a war and how they shouldn’t
want for a war didn’t seem to reach them. I encouraged them to invest in Google,
Macintosh, or something they use. They didn’t want to do that. I went back to
the hotel room, told Keith about the conversation and then realized I had lost
my iPhone.
Our Sun Rise Hotel room |
That
next morning, I prayed I would find my iPhone. It was my future lifeline for
Amman let alone worth hundreds of dollars. Shortly after taking a cold shower,
I got a knock on the door; it was the owner of the foondook which I spoke with
last night. He pulled something out of his pocket and asked, “Is this yours?”
It was my iPhone! I could tell from the case it was in but now it was all
scratched up. “Yes! It is mine, where did you get it?!” “Come, follow me,” he
said. I followed him all the way down the stairs and into the street. He said, “Hunna
(here) my son found it at 2am in the morning.” He pointed at a spot on the street near the curb. It must have fallen out of my pocket or my lap when I got out of Hashem's car the night before. He knew it was mine from the
photos on the phone (I always knew it was good to not put a passcode on the
iPhone!) and he made something very clear to me. He said, “Here at my hotel, I
don’t lie or cheat. In America, someone would have taken it. Now write a
good review of my hotel on the internet.” I nodded my head, said several thank
you’s in Arabic and went back to my hotel room. Wow, what an amazing man and son for not taking my phone, a
very expensive one, too. He was honest and wanted to get rich through a war, what a great introduction to Jordan! And a prayer answered most certainly.
Keith
and I soon after took a taxi to our next meeting place, charged us four dinars
(about $7) which should have really been half a dinar (about $1). Yep, ahlan
wasahlan to Jordan.
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